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  #11  
Old 06-05-2010, 09:13 PM
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In a real quarter mile with timed lights and everything, losing 10-20mph but gaining repeatable bottom end and massive holeshot is worth it's weight in gold.

In the hydro-drags, there is no timing lights, so it's "run whacha brung" racing. Sooooo, the balance is going to be tough to find, and those with more money will almost always whip up no matter how much stuff you pull out.

Talking to Johnny5 up at Woodies, he gutted the entire mid-hull from in front of the engine all the way to the front of the ski, and dropped 25 plus lbs just from that alone.

Another tactic you can use is to get an industrial bead blaster and load it with high abrasives, and bead blast down the inner hull. Maintain your engine mount area. You can shave the inside of the upper deck till it's paper thin too.
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  #12  
Old 06-06-2010, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrotoys View Post
In a real quarter mile with timed lights and everything, losing 10-20mph but gaining repeatable bottom end and massive holeshot is worth it's weight in gold.

In the hydro-drags, there is no timing lights, so it's "run whacha brung" racing. Sooooo, the balance is going to be tough to find, and those with more money will almost always whip up no matter how much stuff you pull out.

Talking to Johnny5 up at Woodies, he gutted the entire mid-hull from in front of the engine all the way to the front of the ski, and dropped 25 plus lbs just from that alone.

Another tactic you can use is to get an industrial bead blaster and load it with high abrasives, and bead blast down the inner hull. Maintain your engine mount area. You can shave the inside of the upper deck till it's paper thin too.
excellent like a dummy I sold my cf seat awhile back so I need to track another down.. gonna take off any xtra metals via grinder like the exhaust,pumps basically anywhere I can
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  #13  
Old 06-06-2010, 05:17 PM
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Stock 13 r seat and swiss cheese it behind the seating area will be almost as light than a cf seat and not cause a 2x4 up your ass. Right behind the front seating area, pull the cover back. cut out ALL of the foam and most of the seating. Restructure it with something hard, like fiberglass or a couple of runs of cf, and cover it with the cover. Done.

Stock steering might be close or lighter than umi. It uses a hollow sst stem. Now the racers used to take the UMI and put a titanium shaft inside of it. Pistywash had one. If this is a ski that will ONLY drag raced, and nothing else, cut the top deck off, underneath the side panels leaving enough material to support the steering, and covers and hood. Remove all the hood hinge and latch, and just attach the hood with plastic push buttons to home-made brackets. Find a way to make the 13r plastic trim tabs work... this ain't top speed, and if you can make them fit, then you lose a pound or two right there. Titanium bolts in the ski can save you a TON of weight, but your wallet gets thin fast. If you are running a sho engine, then some of this stuff will get you in trouble when it pretzels up on you. Treat the hull as disposable.

Remember, foam doesn't weigh jack-shit, and you are taking lots of chances. Stuff the shit out of the inside of the hull with foam if possible.
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrotoys View Post
Stock 13 r seat and swiss cheese it behind the seating area will be almost as light than a cf seat and not cause a 2x4 up your ass. Right behind the front seating area, pull the cover back. cut out ALL of the foam and most of the seating. Restructure it with something hard, like fiberglass or a couple of runs of cf, and cover it with the cover. Done.

Stock steering might be close or lighter than umi. It uses a hollow sst stem. Now the racers used to take the UMI and put a titanium shaft inside of it. Pistywash had one. If this is a ski that will ONLY drag raced, and nothing else, cut the top deck off, underneath the side panels leaving enough material to support the steering, and covers and hood. Remove all the hood hinge and latch, and just attach the hood with plastic push buttons to home-made brackets. Find a way to make the 13r plastic trim tabs work... this ain't top speed, and if you can make them fit, then you lose a pound or two right there. Titanium bolts in the ski can save you a TON of weight, but your wallet gets thin fast. If you are running a sho engine, then some of this stuff will get you in trouble when it pretzels up on you. Treat the hull as disposable.

Remember, foam doesn't weigh jack-shit, and you are taking lots of chances. Stuff the shit out of the inside of the hull with foam if possible.
funny about the foam thing was back in the day everybody was taking it out I always add extra hence the holeshot kit that I worked on along while back, took out the black pieces under the fairings and will cut some out of the mid wall and a few selected areas in the front I will take the same (equal amounts) out of both sides, hell I figure there must be atleast 10 lbs of xtra glue from the factory. I hope not to tear this hull up as it is very fast and has alot of underside tlc
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